Tips

How to Learn

“One man alone can be pretty dumb sometimes, but for real bona fide stupidity, there ain't nothing can beat teamwork.” - Edward Abbey

Learning to climb well takes years. It is a skill that is best taught from person to person. If you don’t have an experienced friend, please hire a guide.

Here are a few concepts you want to pay attention to during the learning process.

• Trust your gut. If something or someone feels sketchy, it probably is. Climb with people you trust.
• Be physically prepared. Be strong going in. The safest way to climb is not to fall. You will have plenty of time to test your limits later.
• Understand fear. Exposed climbing above gear can be stressful, but fear is manageable with time and experience.
• Forgive yourself. You will screw up and make dumb mistakes. It’s okay. We’re all learning.
• Understand that unknown unknowns exist. What you don’t know can get you killed. Educate yourself and seek mentors with experience.

Gear Lists

“Generations have been working in jobs they hate, just so they can buy what they don't really need.” - Chuck Palahniuk

Note: each list builds on the previous.

A note on tri-cams: once a great piece of kit, these are better left on the gear rack at home. If you do insist on using them, the red and pink sizes are most useful.

Ropes

If you can afford only one rope, a single 70-meter rope is best. While it is a bit heavier to carry than a 60-meter rope, the extra length allows you to link pitches on some classic routes.

An important caveat when linking pitches with a longer rope: rope stretch alone can cause a second to deck if they fall in the first 20 feet of the climb.

A 60-meter rope is the gold standard in the Gunks. It is easier to carry and handle, and most bolted anchors in the Gunks are set with this length in mind.

Static ropes are useful when top roping because they keep the climber in place during a fall. Care must be taken to avoid too much slack in the system so you do not shock load anchors.

Double ropes require a higher level of skill from both climber and belayer, but they offer a high level of safety and utility. Double 70-meter ropes will get you down to the ground from pretty much anywhere in the Gunks.

Packs

Climbing-specific packs are not a must, but they typically are a good idea. Some key features to look for:

• Back or side openings for better gear access
• Robust, abrasion-resistant pack material
• Rope strap for carrying a rope over the top of the pack
• External pockets for water bottles and guidebooks
• Internal gear loops for organizing important items like belay devices

Comfort Items

These are optional items, but sometimes they make the difference between going home and getting in another climb.

• Flip-flops or other packable, easy-to-change footwear. Great for belaying after a burn.
• Belay glasses. Wear and tear on your neck is real, and a little prevention goes a long way.
• Belay gloves. Not just for avoiding dirty ropes, a good pair of gloves can also help you give a safer belay, especially with heavier partners.
• Wet wipes.
• Candy or caffeine. Peanut M&Ms and a canned espresso can turn around an afternoon.
• Folding chair. An absolute luxury, but if you will be in one area for a long session, why not?

First Aid Kits

Unless you are a trained first responder, there is really no point in carrying much more than items to handle minor cuts and abrasions.

Keeping extra latex gloves, an Israeli bandage, and an emergency space blanket is never a bad idea.

Some climbing-specific items you may want to carry are:

• Nail clippers or a file
• Crazy glue for skin repair
• Extra ibuprofen
• Tape, both athletic and latex
• Small folding knife or multi-tool
• Disposable lighter

Environmental Hazards

“Snakes, why'd it have to be snakes?” - Indiana Jones

The Gunks are a very safe place to practice traditional climbing. As with any outdoor area, there are a few environmental hazards you may want to be aware of.

• Copperhead snakes, found frequently in the Gunks
• Deer ticks, which can carry Lyme disease
• Hornets, which sometimes nest on the cliff
• Chiggers, microscopic mites that leave itchy red welts
• Poison ivy. Learn to identify and avoid it.

Objective Hazards

Wear your helmet. It’s not sexy, and your mileage may vary, but if you want to be as safe as you can, wear your helmet anytime there are people or rocks above you. Remember, getting hit in the head with a carabiner or a cam is just as bad as getting hit by a rock.

Other than the various creepy crawlies that inhabit the outdoors, there are a few objective hazards to watch out for:

• Loose rock. The rock in the Gunks is incredibly hard and has been climbed on for generations, but freeze-thaw cycles happen.
• Pitons. If you see one, back it up with gear instead of trusting a decades-old fixed pin by itself.
• Other climbers. People knock rocks off the cliff and drop gear all the time.

A note on how not to get hit in the head: things that fall off the cliff tend to bounce out from the wall. So when you hear a climber yell “ROCK!”, a good bet is to run into the cliff.